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    July 10

    天地有大美而不自言——青海行(一)

     

    日月亭

    从西宁出发不久,就到了日月山。日月山走势甚为平缓,视野十分的舒展。只见蓝天上白云浮动,成群的牛羊在山坡悠然地吃草。天地间是一种柔和的美,充满着“采菊东篱下,悠然见南山”的闲适。

    日月山上有两座小亭,分别叫做日亭和月亭。

    image

    图:日月山上的日月亭

    相传当年文成公主出嫁吐蕃,曾路经此地。这位奔赴异国的公主翘首西望,只见天高云低,前路苍茫;回首东望长安,离故都已是越行越远。公主悲不自胜,却毅然挥泪西行。泪水汇聚成今天的倒淌河,由东而西流入青海湖。

    这些流传在牧民口中的故事,远比那些写在史册上的功绩更加美丽动人。为和平,为文化,为国家,为民族,该是历史的妄语吧。难以想象,一个女子的生命怎能承受如此之重呢?我宁愿相信,公主背井离乡远嫁他方,只是为了追求属于她的幸福。但她定是个不寻常的女子,一位风华绝代的女子。难怪松赞干布在迎娶文成公主的时候,乐不可支地说道,“能取公主为妻,实为幸运”。

    松赞干布纵横无匹,统一藏区,自然是草原上的枭雄。也正因为如此,他才与文成公主结为佳偶。但自古以来的英雄,大多是孤独的。江山和美人,松赞干布都得到了,确实幸运。反观以萧峰这样的大英雄,阿朱那般的奇女子,终究只落得个“塞外牛羊空许约”的结局。牧牛放羊,看似小小的心愿,其实已是莫大的幸福。

    日月山上,芳草鲜美,牛羊成群。日亭和月亭静静地并肩而立,相看两不厌。

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